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My friend just got a Pathé Model X, and had a few questions.
Can the tonearm turn to play lateral records? If so, how?
What would the original finish have been?
And where would one find gaskets for the reproducer?
Thanks everyone.

gunnarthefeisty wrote: Sun Jun 12, 2022 1:10 am My friend just got a Pathé Model X, and had a few questions.
Can the tonearm turn to play lateral records? If so, how?
What would the original finish have been?
And where would one find gaskets for the reproducer?
Thanks everyone.

Photos would really help...

1. Pathés that I've had, needed an accessory piece in order to play lateral records. Kind of like how Edison Diamond Disc machines need an accessory reproducer.
2. Shellac, most likely
3. Same gasket material & suppliers as for most reproducers. White gasket hose.

If your friends X is like mine, it'll have a thumb screw on the tonearm near the soundbox as pictured below. Loosen off the thumb screw, and you should be able to turn the soundbox and short section of the tonearm clockwise as far as it goes until it's positioned as pictured below. The angle the soundbox sits at looks a little weird, but in that position the needle and needle bar are lined up in the correct position to play lateral cut discs.

Just be careful turning the soundbox because these American tonearms have pot metal components that can break if you use too much pressure turning it.
I grip the main straight section of the tonearm before turning the soundbox otherwise the whole arm will twist and can easily be damaged.
I'd also recommend using some penetrating oil or WD40 on the joint before attempting to turn it because it may not have been rotated for a very long time, if at all.
You may even want to remove the tonearm from the motor board and remove the soundbox to turn it the first time, so the base isn't anchored down and you can make sure the small section of the tonearm rotates freely.
Be sure to tighten the thumb screw again once it's in the position you need.

WD-40 is NOT a penetrating lubricant. It is meant to be a water-resistant coating to prevent rust. After the naphtha carrier evaporates away, it leaves a waxy oil that oxidizes rapidly and becomes gummy. Use a real penetrating lubricant.

JohnM wrote: Mon Jun 13, 2022 7:33 am WD-40 is NOT a penetrating lubricant.

It certainly works as one when you've got nothing else on hand.
I've also used it as a water dispersant on a wet carburettor years ago and it did the job.
As I see it, why go and waste money buying something you might only ever use once when you may already have something sitting there that will do the job required?

gramophoneshane wrote: Mon Jun 13, 2022 7:57 am

JohnM wrote: Mon Jun 13, 2022 7:33 am WD-40 is NOT a penetrating lubricant.

It certainly works as one when you've got nothing else on hand.
I've also used it as a water dispersant on a wet carburettor years ago and it did the job.
As I see it, why go and waste money buying something you might only ever use once when you may already have something sitting there that will do the job required?

Because it’s important to do things the right way?

What about using wd40 for freeing the frozen parts, then good cleaning with adequate solvent, then spying a good thin grease?

JohnM wrote: Mon Jun 13, 2022 9:09 am

gramophoneshane wrote: Mon Jun 13, 2022 7:57 am

JohnM wrote: Mon Jun 13, 2022 7:33 am WD-40 is NOT a penetrating lubricant.

It certainly works as one when you've got nothing else on hand.
I've also used it as a water dispersant on a wet carburettor years ago and it did the job.
As I see it, why go and waste money buying something you might only ever use once when you may already have something sitting there that will do the job required?

Because it’s important to do things the right way?

There's normally more than one way to reach a desired goal.
Kind of like doing springs barrels, where your way may be different to mine, but that doesn't mean your way or mine is the wrong way. It just means we do it differently, and as long as we both end up with clean springs with fresh grease and they don't thump, then we've both achieved what we set out to do.

Inigo wrote: Mon Jun 13, 2022 9:49 am What about using wd40 for freeing the frozen parts, then good cleaning with adequate solvent, then spying a good thin grease?

Nothing wrong with that as far as I'm concerned.
I've never thought of WD40 as a long term lubricant, so in the case of something like this tonearm, I simply apply a couple drops of Singer sewing machine oil to the joint once it's freed, but I'm sure a thin grease or even (in trouble again lol) Vaseline, would be fine to use as well.

Inigo wrote: Mon Jun 13, 2022 9:49 am What about using wd40 for freeing the frozen parts, then good cleaning with adequate solvent, then spying a good thin grease?

Repeat: WD-40 is NOT a penetrating lubricant. It is a rust-preventer.