I have an Edison cylinder phonograph that I inherited from my dad, and I have no clue how to use it.
Some specific questions:
I think it's a "standard model B" is that the right model and way to say it?
Does it use a needle?
Is there supposed to be a hanger for the horn? I have a small horn, maybe a foot long, and a large one that's like 4 feet long. Is the large one even intended for the Edison or is it just something else my dad came across and kept?
We can't find the crank for the Edison, what's the right one? I see some on ebay that look right but some say male, some say female.
If I get a crank and figure out the needle, no needle thing... How can I make it play? Some basic instructions would be great. Like how many times should it be cranked? Which end does the needle start on?
Edison cylinder phonograph questions
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- Victor Jr
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Re: Edison cylinder phonograph questions
Your machine is indeed an Edison Standard Model B. Congratulations - these are workhorses, and many of us began our collecting days with one.
Edison cylinder Phonographs did not use needles, but rather a semi-permanent stylus. In this instance, a sapphire in your Model C Reproducer. There's a good chance the stylus is still good, but if not, replacements are available.
Remove that yellow yarn, lift the reproducer carriage an inch or so by the round button at the front, and push in the button. Now you can lower the carriage without damaging the record or the stylus. To play, pull out the button and gently lower the carriage. The record will play from left to right.
The crank for this will be female, but check inside the cabinet - many times owners put cranks inside for storage.
I highly recommend the free Introductory articles found on the Antique Phonograph Society website. This one is especially useful:
https://www.antiquephono.org/#/collectiondetails/16
Don't be shy about asking questions, and best of luck - -
George P.
Edison cylinder Phonographs did not use needles, but rather a semi-permanent stylus. In this instance, a sapphire in your Model C Reproducer. There's a good chance the stylus is still good, but if not, replacements are available.
Remove that yellow yarn, lift the reproducer carriage an inch or so by the round button at the front, and push in the button. Now you can lower the carriage without damaging the record or the stylus. To play, pull out the button and gently lower the carriage. The record will play from left to right.
The crank for this will be female, but check inside the cabinet - many times owners put cranks inside for storage.
I highly recommend the free Introductory articles found on the Antique Phonograph Society website. This one is especially useful:
https://www.antiquephono.org/#/collectiondetails/16
Don't be shy about asking questions, and best of luck - -
George P.
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- Victor Jr
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Re: Edison cylinder phonograph questions
//but check inside the cabinet - many times owners put cranks inside for storage.//
I have a couple other record players and my dad was meticulous about keeping everything. How do I open the cabinet?
I have a couple other record players and my dad was meticulous about keeping everything. How do I open the cabinet?
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Re: Edison cylinder phonograph questions
It looks like the yellow yarn is there to hold the end gate in place. I think the springy bit of metal that is supposed to secure it is broken. You can't play the machine without the endgate secured. You'll want to get that fixed.
About five years ago, I wrote a primer on cylinder machines, which among other things has a labeled diagram showing the terms for various of their parts. You can find it here: https://www.tnt-audio.com/vintage/ediso ... rs1_e.html The second part of the article is linked at the bottom of the first. Don't bother with the page linked there specific to the Standard Model B; I just checked, and that now leads to a general Antique Phonograph Society webpage instead. If the Standard B page is still available, it may be accessible only if you join the organization or at least will take some hunting through the site.
About horns: the short horn is fine as shown in your photo. The big one, assuming it's a cylinder machine horn, will need a separate crane to support it. (No way of being sure about it without a photo, but that's the most likely situation.) As noted in my article, my first cylinder machine was a Standard B, same as yours; I sold it some years ago, having moved on to a Triumph, but I'm attaching a photo from 'way back when that shows its large horn with crane.
You must have some cylinders to play, and with your machine they probably are what are known as two-minute wax, and they are most likely black. Be careful putting them on the mandrel (see the aforementioned diagram); don't push them on more than the gentle amount needed to get them to "stick," as you can easily burst them with too much force. (Don't ask me how I know....) A black wax cylinder should be black throughout; if it has brown patches or spotting, that's mold damage, which irreversibly destroys the grooves wherever it appears; if extensive enough, it renders the cylinder unplayable, and in all events it will make loud noise whenever the stylus encounters it. If you have a cylinder that's heavily afflicted, however, it may still be useful as a test piece for learning how much pressure you need to get one secured to the mandrel for play without putting a "good" one at risk. Earlier cylinders were made of a brown wax and present other issues. Not likely that you have any, but if you do, the mold that afflicts *them* is white. Probably no need to belabor them further at this point, but if you do have any such come back with more questions and we can discuss further.
Good luck, congratulations, and welcome to the world of phonographs generally and to the forum in particular!
[edit] Missed your last couple of questions on first read. Cylinders play from left to right. They go on the machine with the end showing title and artist information to the right. As to cranking, it's a matter of "feel"; when you feel the spring giving strong resistance, stop cranking. Avoid touching the cylinder surface; handle it with two fingers spread inside, touching the inner surface.
About five years ago, I wrote a primer on cylinder machines, which among other things has a labeled diagram showing the terms for various of their parts. You can find it here: https://www.tnt-audio.com/vintage/ediso ... rs1_e.html The second part of the article is linked at the bottom of the first. Don't bother with the page linked there specific to the Standard Model B; I just checked, and that now leads to a general Antique Phonograph Society webpage instead. If the Standard B page is still available, it may be accessible only if you join the organization or at least will take some hunting through the site.
About horns: the short horn is fine as shown in your photo. The big one, assuming it's a cylinder machine horn, will need a separate crane to support it. (No way of being sure about it without a photo, but that's the most likely situation.) As noted in my article, my first cylinder machine was a Standard B, same as yours; I sold it some years ago, having moved on to a Triumph, but I'm attaching a photo from 'way back when that shows its large horn with crane.
You must have some cylinders to play, and with your machine they probably are what are known as two-minute wax, and they are most likely black. Be careful putting them on the mandrel (see the aforementioned diagram); don't push them on more than the gentle amount needed to get them to "stick," as you can easily burst them with too much force. (Don't ask me how I know....) A black wax cylinder should be black throughout; if it has brown patches or spotting, that's mold damage, which irreversibly destroys the grooves wherever it appears; if extensive enough, it renders the cylinder unplayable, and in all events it will make loud noise whenever the stylus encounters it. If you have a cylinder that's heavily afflicted, however, it may still be useful as a test piece for learning how much pressure you need to get one secured to the mandrel for play without putting a "good" one at risk. Earlier cylinders were made of a brown wax and present other issues. Not likely that you have any, but if you do, the mold that afflicts *them* is white. Probably no need to belabor them further at this point, but if you do have any such come back with more questions and we can discuss further.
Good luck, congratulations, and welcome to the world of phonographs generally and to the forum in particular!
[edit] Missed your last couple of questions on first read. Cylinders play from left to right. They go on the machine with the end showing title and artist information to the right. As to cranking, it's a matter of "feel"; when you feel the spring giving strong resistance, stop cranking. Avoid touching the cylinder surface; handle it with two fingers spread inside, touching the inner surface.
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Last edited by drh on Sun Sep 03, 2023 10:31 am, edited 2 times in total.
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- Victor Jr
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Re: Edison cylinder phonograph questions
The yellow is a pipe cleaner used to secure everything during transport. Nothing looks damaged or broken.
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- Victor Jr
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Re: Edison cylinder phonograph questions
I just noticed that on the piece of metal that appears to hold the stylus to the reproducer, it says "model C" - is that meaningful? Model C reproducer on a Model B phonograph?
Also it's loose and wiggles around (see attached video). Normal?
Also it's loose and wiggles around (see attached video). Normal?
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- drh
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Re: Edison cylinder phonograph questions
Yes, that's right--the Model C reproducer was Edison's normal model for playing two-minute wax cylinders, and it's a separate matter from the Model B phonograph mechanism. It should in fact have that free play. Sounds like you're good to go. Note that I just added a couple of "edits" to my post above, which "crossed in the mail" with your more recent posting.
Last edited by drh on Sun Sep 03, 2023 10:34 am, edited 1 time in total.
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- Victor Jr
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Re: Edison cylinder phonograph questions
Oh and is this a 2/4 minute shifter? Was that available on Model B?
Sorry for all the questions, I'm really proud of this and it's a family heirloom and I'd like to be able to do more than point at it and say "That's and Edison phonograph" when people come over
Sorry for all the questions, I'm really proud of this and it's a family heirloom and I'd like to be able to do more than point at it and say "That's and Edison phonograph" when people come over
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- Victor Jr
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Re: Edison cylinder phonograph questions
Oh and I'm still unsure about the earlier reply that said to look in the cabinet for the crank. How do I look in the cabinet? Take out the three screws holding the mechanism to the wood?
- drh
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Re: Edison cylinder phonograph questions
As well you should be! It's uncommon and really lovely to have a machine that came down through the family. The lever is the "on/off" switch; a two/four adapter would have a separate shifter and extra gearing as shown in the photo below.postwick wrote: Sun Sep 03, 2023 10:33 am Oh and is this a 2/4 minute shifter? Was that available on Model B?
Sorry for all the questions, I'm really proud of this and it's a family heirloom and I'd like to be able to do more than point at it and say "That's and Edison phonograph" when people come over![]()
To open the cabinet, remove the horn, pivot the lid latches out as far as they will go, and lift the front edge of the wooden frame around the bedplate. It's hinged at the back.