Shellac(k)ing an Edison bedplate

[mjbarnes]

I have made a 2 lb. mix of shellac flakes and denatured alcohol. I was hoping to apply it with a rubber just like in French polishing. There has been lots of crazing and rapid sticking. One thing I have not tried yet is oil on the rubber.

However, I read that metal cannot be French polished this way for lots of reasons.

Before I fill my spray gun with my shellac mix, I want to ask if anybody has a successful non-spray method of applying shellac.

Thanks as always for the terrific support on this forum.

Mike Barnes
Mayne Island, B.C.

[martinola]

A very nice artist's brush is what I used. You'll still need to wet sand with 800 grit and polish when everything has cured.

Regards,
Martin

[mjbarnes]

Would you mind describing the polishing step?

Also, presuming you are the martinola over on the AP site who detailed so detailedly the restoration of the green Standard, could you tell me what Mica Monster's techniques are for pinstriping?

Thanks very much, Mike Barnes

[mjbarnes]

What I have learned so far:
1. Shellac is soft so it can be removed pretty easily with 0000 steel wool. Dip wool in denatured alcohol if desired to melt the shellac at the same time it is being rubbed away.
2. Do not use sandpaper because it is time consuming removing the scratches.
3. Steel wool is used to level the shellac surface. After the surface has been rubbed it is dull and no longer presentable. As a final treatment then after the final shellac-and-rub, use automotive buffer/polisher to bring the shine back. Then automotive paste wax will make it gleam even more.
Not that I have carried through successfully yet. But I sprayed my first coat tonight since I was unhappy with the very uneven results with shellac applied with an artist brush.

[Lucius1958]

One thing I have not tried yet is oil on the rubber.

Oil is essential to the French polishing technique: it lubricates the pad so that it doesn't stick..

I haven't heard about French polishing being unsuitable for metal: I've never tried it.

- Bill

[Lah Ca]

"I would have thought the bedplate would have had a Black Japan (bitumen) finish, the same used on tools and automobiles of the era," he said speaking from a combination of general know-it-all-ness and complete specific ignorance about Edison machines.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Japan_black

[mjbarnes]

Martinola elaborated his polishing steps in an email to me:

Hi Mike.

I'm sure others have their favorite fast method, but I like the results I get. It takes quite a bit of patience. Your picture looks like what I get when beginning. I do many layers of shellac. I do maybe 4 or 5 coats, let things cure a week or two and then sand. Once sanded, build up another 4 or 5 coats, let it cure, and then see where you are. If I recall, I did about 15 coats or so that way. 220 grit is a bit coarse, but could work for the earlier levelling, if you use a light touch. What you want to avoid is to have deep scratches - especially in the area with decorations. Once you get things more or less levelled up, you'll want to use 400 wet/dry paper and then maybe 600 or 800, followed by a final polish. I use white auto body polish because that's what I have on hand.

It's important to sand only when everything is hardened up enough. Sand gently and try not to build up heat (which will soften the finish). Also, don't do this in direct sun or try to speed up the curing by using a hair dryer or putting it in an oven - the shellac will bubble and make you start over again. (I've tried it.) If it's very humid, don't shellac.

You may want to thin it slightly with denatured alcohol. Another thing to keep in mind is that sometimes the castings were left a bit rough (especially on the lower end models) and even as new the finish wasn't always perfectly flat.

Please forgive me if I state obvious stuff. It looks like you are well on your way to a fine job. Just be patient, you'll get it.

[Curt A]

The fastest and easiest way I have found to apply shellac is a clean, lint free, cloth like an old tee shirt. Apply a number of thin coats letting them dry between = DO NOT go over it while still tacky. This method gives smooth result with no brush marks. When dry go over the surface with #0000 steel wool, then wipe with a clean dry cloth to remove dust or steel wool particles.

[Nipper The Cat]

Let your shellac dry for at least a day, then degloss it with 4F pumice and linseed oil. This will give you the smoothest possible finish and closely match the look of original finish. If you want a high gloss, rub again with rottenstone. Thirty years ago, pumice was available at many hardware stores, but now you may have to order it off the web. Like steel wool, it comes in grades, 4F being the finest.