WW2 phonograph toner arm

[Ant1942]

I bought a U.S. army ww2 crank phonograph recently and I’m having issues playing records as the crank spins the music box up and the table spins but as soon as I put a record on and put the reproducer and arm on it… the table slows down and unless I hold the arm up….. it feels like the toner arm is really wobbly…. Any suggestions would be appreciated

[OrthoFan]

The end of the tonearm which you're holding in your hand has broken off from the (round) base plate. It is normally held in place by a circular washer-like retaining ring. If you carefully remove the three screws holding the base plate in place, you may find what's left of it. It looks like a previous owner tried to repair it--unsuccessfully.

I tried to find an online photo of the underside of the tonearm's base to show what I'm talking about, but no luck so far.

I'm not sure if this can be repaired, though HOPEFULLY, someone else will offer his or her opinion about this.

The simplest "fix" would be to find a similar or matching tonearm--in good condition--and paint it green to match the original, such as this type from a Birch portable:

As you can see it's a near exact match for the one you have, except for the color.

I spotted some for sale here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/226215441335?i ... R7T6gK6PZA
(The nickel colored ones, though one has a broken base.)

Once restored--including the reproducer or "sound box"--these WWII mechanical field phonographs pump out quite a powerful sound. Though they were fitted the same exact components--reproducers/tonearms/motors, etc.--used in the 1940s era portable phonographs produced for the civilian consumer market, many were equipped with longer and larger tone chambers (internal horns) which increased the mid-range and upper bass response.

OrthoFan

[Ant1942]

Think the eBay one will fit? The reproducer itself is actually really good so just need the arm…. Also one seller said that the c clamp on the end is what causes issue if put on or taken off incorrectly…. Any suggestions there and how should I take the reproducer off?

[OrthoFan]

Think the eBay one will fit? The reproducer itself is actually really good so just need the arm…. Also one seller said that the c clamp on the end is what causes issue if put on or taken off incorrectly…. Any suggestions there and how should I take the reproducer off?

You might try getting in touch with the seller and see what the measurements of the tonearms are, and compare them to the one you have. Otherwise, this type of tonearm comes up for sale on Ebay from time to time, and may also be available from phonograph parts suppliers. (If you decide to go the replacement route, you can post a "wanted ad" in the Yankee Trader section of this forum.

As for removing the sound box, there should be a visible screw on the back collar of the reproducer securing it to the end of the tonearm. There's also a rubber gasket inside the collar or the "throat" of the reproducer, which has most likely turned hard as rock. After you carefully remove the screw, try twisting the reproducer off. If it won't budge, then squirt some penetrating oil onto the hard gasket and GENTLY try to twist it. It should come off once the oil has worked its way between the gasket and the end of the tonearm.

OrthoFan

[Ant1942]

Oh i definitely placed a bid on them just to have spares bit…. I contacted a well known gramophone repair shop and was told they have a replacement arm so I’ll be going down that route…. Just said paint it and put it together……he said that the c clamp on the back tends to cause issues for some people trying to reassemble them causing the issue/ breakage….. also good to know on the reproducer….. i definitely wanna be gentle with that…

[Ant1942]

Oh do I need to replace the gasket by the way?

[OrthoFan]

Oh do I need to replace the gasket by the way?

The gasket I mentioned securing the tonearm to the reproducer should be replaced if it has hardened. This was used to create an air-tight seal between the reproducer and tonearm and enabled the reproducer to flex when tracking the record--especially important if the record spins slightly off-center, which many do.

As for the reproducer, itself, for optimum sound quality--reduced surface noise, enhanced mid-range and bass, etc.--the hardened rubber gaskets securing the aluminum diaphragm should also be replaced at some point. The problem is, the diaphragm is EXTREMELY fragile and is easily torn or dented. Fortunately, there are a few members on this forum who do excellent work restoring reproducers.

OrthoFan

[OrthoFan]

Anthony:
Just to let you know, I replied to your PM. Login to view.
OrthoFan

[OrthoFan]

Anthony:

I deleted the PM I sent you a week ago, since you never logged in to view it, and sent you an email reply a few days ago instead. If you didn't get it, check your spam folder.

OrthoFan

[Frisco The Beagle]

A couple other things to check:
The base plate on these phonographs often seem to be pot metal, which will swell slightly over time. When the base plate swells, it will tighten up around the tone arm causing it to drag and not track well (or at all) while playing a record. This also may explain how the base ring came to be damaged as the previous owner tried to disassemble it. If it is stiff or tight, you can use fine sandpaper and some light oil to carefully sand the inside of the base plate until the tone arm is able to swivel easily. Go slowly and check often as you don't want a sloppy fit.

There should also be some ball bearings between the bottom face of the tone arm and a corresponding face in the base plate. Some or all of these may be missing.

Good luck! I love these machines and the V-Discs!