kotton kleanser issues

[brianu]

I've always used and rarely had a problem with kotton kleanser - it often works miracles on faded, filthy finishes (at this point, I've worked on at least a couple hundred machines). but the other night I was cleaning an oak cabinet... I usually brush the product on with a soft paint brush, then use the four-0 steel wool followed by a soft cloth. for the first time in the years that I've used this stuff, for some reason it seemed to really be working over the finish... it's a darker oak finish, not golden. a couple of spots where I initially brushed the stuff on seemed to fade significantly, basically in the exact spot where the first few brush strokes were made, but nowhere else. then after using the steel wool, it seemed to lighten the finish much more and much faster overall than I've previously encountered.

might anyone have had any similar experiences, or perhaps have any suggestions - particularly for blending in the lighter "cleaned" areas around those brush strokes with the darker "less cleaned" areas?

[Brad]

Brian,

I have experience the case where a previous person, years in the past, used tinted wax, or maybe even a stain as a wash to even out an uneven finish. I used this a few times to hide some inconsistencies. Perhaps this was the case here? Was the color of the dirty KK that you wiped off dark black like dirt, or did it have color, like the color of the machine?

I know you said that it appeared to be where you brushed it on first. Maybe a tinted wax was used?

[need4art]

Hi Brian,
I have used KK for over 35 years in my work and have learned that the statement "to test in inconspicuous area" is the guide word. I have learned that when I believe a process, technique or methodology to be foolproof it jumps up and bites me in the b--t. I have found that it is best to always mix KK before I use it as the chemical concentration changes within the product base as the amount in the container drops.

Another thing I have found is if you do not think that you have enough in a container to finish the job than mix the 2 of them together-it evens up the chemical difference between a new container and an old one.

Another thing that I have also found is that I do not brush on the product I use 0000 steel wool, dip it in the KK and spread it that way working it back and forth on the wood surface and I use a clean rag to wipe down often before the product drys on the surface. I would rather repeat the process rather than going to far on the first pass.

Abe

[JohnM]

Brian,
Fumed oak finishes were often just waxed for a final coat, no varnish or shellac applied.

[brianu]

thanks for the suggestions... I don't think this is a fumed oak finish, just one of a non-golden, darker tone. after working on it further, what seems to be the case is someone formerly - I think - touched it up in spots and then applied some sort of top coat that the kk was pulling right off.

no worries, though, I think I've got this under control at this point... I'd just never encountered this before. then again, I've never tried to restore a machine starting out with an empty totally gutted cabinet before either... I imagine a former owner was using this as a bar, and probably did some basic "restoration" to shine up the finish... and that that's what I ended up removing with the kk. I'll post some photos of this machine when I'm totally done... it's a rare one.