Diagram showing reproducer position and record rotation...
The HMV130 and the Noob :)
- Curt A
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Re: The HMV130 and the Noob :)
"The phonograph is not of any commercial value."
Thomas Alva Edison - Comment to his assistant, Samuel Insull.
"No one needs a Victrola XX, a Perfected Graphophone Type G, or whatever you call those noisy things."
My Wife
Thomas Alva Edison - Comment to his assistant, Samuel Insull.
"No one needs a Victrola XX, a Perfected Graphophone Type G, or whatever you call those noisy things."
My Wife
- Orchorsol
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Re: The HMV130 and the Noob :)
Strictly speaking, this generation of machines were designed to play electrically recorded 78s, which for the major makes started in 1925.Curt A wrote: Wed Jun 19, 2024 9:05 pm Another point to consider - your machine is designed to play acoustically recorded "shellac" records made approx. before 1930. After that time frame records were still 78s, but began to be electrically recorded on softer plastic formula blanks that are made for lighter electronic reproducers. Records from the mid 30s, 40s and 50s will not play well with steel needles...
Opinions amongst us enthusiasts differ on exactly which era of 78s to play on our gramophones! Plus here in the UK the shellac material didn't change significantly apart from a few wholly vinyl 78s in the late 1950s. Personally I'm happy to play any shellac 78s with a steel needle unless they're rare, although post-WW2 they tend to sound better played electrically.
BCN thorn needles made to the original 1920s specifications: http://www.burmesecolourneedles.com
Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCe4DNb ... TPE-zTAJGg?
Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCe4DNb ... TPE-zTAJGg?
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- Victor Jr
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Re: The HMV130 and the Noob :)
In one of your photos, you show the needle positioned perfectly vertical. You also depict the reproducer/needle sitting to the left of the turntable spindle. Both are incorrect, (and for some odd reason a very common error seen these days).
The reproducer/tonearm/needle must be positioned to the right of the spindle. The reproducer/needle also must adjusted such that the needle sits at roughly a 30 degree angle from vertical and pointing "forward", in the direction of rotation.
Have you removed the reproducer from the tonearm? If you have, you will see a "J" shaped slot in the tonearm end. You will also see a locator pin inside the reproducer throat. When placing the reproducer on the arm, the pin is aligned with and slides into the J slot. Once the reproducer pin slides into the J slot as far as it will go, the repoducer is then rotated so that the pin follows the bottom of the J. Once the pin hits the end of the J slot, the proper angle will be achieved.
Also, use the needle only once. Replace it with every play.
[/quote]
I indeed saw the "J" shaped slot in the tonearm end, checked it and normally it should be the right angle.
However, I dont understand the reproducer position as then, it makes the record unplayable (unless it's not the right kind of record)?
For the needle, I need to buy a new pack since I have about 90 in the phonogram pot but I have no idea wether they are worn out or not.
But for the moment, just testing with an old '78 no-one is interested in at home and which was already scratched so.... a few scratches more won't hurt I guess.
The reproducer/tonearm/needle must be positioned to the right of the spindle. The reproducer/needle also must adjusted such that the needle sits at roughly a 30 degree angle from vertical and pointing "forward", in the direction of rotation.
Have you removed the reproducer from the tonearm? If you have, you will see a "J" shaped slot in the tonearm end. You will also see a locator pin inside the reproducer throat. When placing the reproducer on the arm, the pin is aligned with and slides into the J slot. Once the reproducer pin slides into the J slot as far as it will go, the repoducer is then rotated so that the pin follows the bottom of the J. Once the pin hits the end of the J slot, the proper angle will be achieved.
Also, use the needle only once. Replace it with every play.
[/quote]
I indeed saw the "J" shaped slot in the tonearm end, checked it and normally it should be the right angle.
However, I dont understand the reproducer position as then, it makes the record unplayable (unless it's not the right kind of record)?
For the needle, I need to buy a new pack since I have about 90 in the phonogram pot but I have no idea wether they are worn out or not.

But for the moment, just testing with an old '78 no-one is interested in at home and which was already scratched so.... a few scratches more won't hurt I guess.
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- Victor Jr
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Re: The HMV130 and the Noob :)
Curt,Curt A wrote: Wed Jun 19, 2024 9:30 pm Diagram showing reproducer position and record rotation...
Screenshot 2024-06-19 at 9.27.30 PM.png
Is this correct? If so, I guess there is a problem with the record?

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- Victor Jr
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Re: The HMV130 and the Noob :)
This is verry interesting, as most of the old '78 I managed to find in our old house don't come with anything that can't identify when they were made (old paper record covers are almost gone and no year on the records). Hence, I thought there was only one kind of recordOrchorsol wrote: Thu Jun 20, 2024 5:12 amStrictly speaking, this generation of machines were designed to play electrically recorded 78s, which for the major makes started in 1925.Curt A wrote: Wed Jun 19, 2024 9:05 pm Another point to consider - your machine is designed to play acoustically recorded "shellac" records made approx. before 1930. After that time frame records were still 78s, but began to be electrically recorded on softer plastic formula blanks that are made for lighter electronic reproducers. Records from the mid 30s, 40s and 50s will not play well with steel needles...
Opinions amongst us enthusiasts differ on exactly which era of 78s to play on our gramophones! Plus here in the UK the shellac material didn't change significantly apart from a few wholly vinyl 78s in the late 1950s. Personally I'm happy to play any shellac 78s with a steel needle unless they're rare, although post-WW2 they tend to sound better played electrically.

- Orchorsol
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Re: The HMV130 and the Noob :)
I wouldn't worry too much Marie - if they feel cold, hard and brittle (as opposed to 'plastic-y') they're shellac and they should be fine - just that the later ones will sound a bit raucous!
As Curt says, in the US, softer materials were increasingly used in the shellac mix as time went on, but that isn't really a concern for us in the UK.
And - play records like this!
As Curt says, in the US, softer materials were increasingly used in the shellac mix as time went on, but that isn't really a concern for us in the UK.
And - play records like this!
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Last edited by Orchorsol on Thu Jun 20, 2024 6:39 am, edited 1 time in total.
BCN thorn needles made to the original 1920s specifications: http://www.burmesecolourneedles.com
Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCe4DNb ... TPE-zTAJGg?
Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCe4DNb ... TPE-zTAJGg?
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Online
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Re: The HMV130 and the Noob :)
No! You still have the reproducer to the left of the spindle, with the needle digging into the record. Swing the tonearm to the right side. The needle angle is now correct however.
The only problem with the record is that it's been ruined by playing it the wrong way.
Check out this video.. Notice where the reproducer is placed when playing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHc7mYlpGI8&t=3s
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- Victor Jr
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- Curt A
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Re: The HMV130 and the Noob :)
The last pic is correct...
"The phonograph is not of any commercial value."
Thomas Alva Edison - Comment to his assistant, Samuel Insull.
"No one needs a Victrola XX, a Perfected Graphophone Type G, or whatever you call those noisy things."
My Wife
Thomas Alva Edison - Comment to his assistant, Samuel Insull.
"No one needs a Victrola XX, a Perfected Graphophone Type G, or whatever you call those noisy things."
My Wife
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- Victor O
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Re: The HMV130 and the Noob :)
While it’s not the quickest or easiest process, Discogs is a great resource. If you look up (for example) Artie Shaw and then scroll down the results for a bit, you’ll have the option to filter your search of his records by format (78 RPM) and label, and then you can hunt through the list for your particular song. The label in the center of the disk will also include a release number, which can help if the label issued the disk a few times. Discogs has the year in their database.
This is verry interesting, as most of the old '78 I managed to find in our old house don't come with anything that can't identify when they were made (old paper record covers are almost gone and no year on the records). Hence, I thought there was only one kind of recordSo how can you see that a '78 has the "right" era to be played on such an old machine?