Columbia Type N Graphophone results

[Morell1]

Here's an update on the Type N Graphophone my wife found last week for $55. It looked very rough when she bought it, but the price was right. I'm astonished by how well it cleaned up with Gojo and polish. It's just beautiful--very shiny nickel plate with only mild pitting, bright aluminum, and a beautiful finish. (I've attached the before and after pictures.)

It had clearly been neglected, but not abused, for decades. The crumbling remnants of an old belt were lying in pieces on top of the bed plate. What looked like rust and corrosion in the photos was actually just grime. The Columbia #4 reproducer is in great shape. I tested it on another machine, and it played loud and clear. I was considering selling it to defray any restoration expenses--including (eventually) a much more expensive gutta percha reproducer--but I'm guessing the Columbia 4 has been with the machine for many years,

I'm now focusing on returning this machine to playing condition. It runs on what appears to be a strong spring, but I'm sending the leather gear out for restoration. I have a serviceable (but woefully incorrect) crank, which will do until I find a truly authentic example.

All I need now is an appropriate belt and a crank escutcheon. Two questions for the exceptionally knowledgeable people on this forum:
* Which leather belting material is most appropriate to this machine? brown 5/16 inch: https://thephonographshop.com/products/ ... 6-per-foot or Authentic Premium Columbia Belting ⅜":https://thephonographshop.com/products/ ... 8-per-foot?
* Is the crank escutcheon for the Type N the same as the escutcheon on later machines? I'm guessing it might be hard to find a Type N escutcheon in the wild.

Thank you!

[JerryVan]

What a great find! That cleaned up beautifully!

[Phono-Phan]

Amazing!!!! Where is the leather gear being repaired?

[TinfoilPhono]

That looks amazing!

The stitched belting is expensive but it is the best looking and most historically accurate. I've used that on my Type G, N, and A Graphophones. For reference, below is a picture of an original belt on my BO. (I also have an AB with original stitched belt.)

A key difference between originals and the replica belting is that Columbia made an invisible splice prior to stitching, so it's perfectly consistent throughout. With the modern replica belt there is inevitably a visible splice, but when done carefully it's barely noticeable.

[Morell1]

What a great find! That cleaned up beautifully!

Thank you, Jerry!

[Morell1]

Amazing!!!! Where is the leather gear being repaired?

Thank you! A very trusted member of this forum kindly offered to repair it at very reasonable cost.

[Morell1]

That looks amazing!

The stitched belting is expensive but it is the best looking and most historically accurate. I've used that on my Type G, N, and A Graphophones. For reference, below is a picture of an original belt on my BO. (I also have an AB with original stitched belt.)

A key difference between originals and the replica belting is that Columbia made an invisible splice prior to stitching, so it's perfectly consistent throughout. With the modern replica belt there is inevitably a visible splice, but when done carefully it's barely noticeable.

Thank you! I'll go with the stitched belt and try to be as precise as possible with the splice.

[Starkton]

How are the ends of the belt being connected on the replica? What does the result look like?

[Morell1]

How are the ends of the belt being connected on the replica? What does the result look like?

I have actually been asking myself this very question. I suspect that, when I skive the top of one end and the underside of the other, I have to do so in such a way as to keep the final row of visible stitches intact. I'd then need to line up the adjoining pieces to prevent very obvious discontinuity in the stitching.

I'm not quite sure how I'll do that when skiving the underside of the leather, which would probably undermine the stitching visible on the top. I've bought extra belting so that I can practice first.

Another thought: I could buy matching thread (assuming I can find it) and do some hand-sewing to strengthen the splice and ensure visual continuity.

[Starkton]

Please tell and show us how you finally did it to achieve the best result.