RESTORATION: reviving a "skeleton" of a skeleton Edison Home

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phonogfp
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Re: RESTORATION: reviving a "skeleton" of a skeleton Edison

Post by phonogfp »

MicaMonster wrote: Badged crank? I have to stick to having a badged crank.......for the coolness factor! George....you know me. Well, wait a minute.......you know me when I am garrulous and caffeinated! :lol:
Badges? BADGES? We don't need no stinkin' badges! :)

Actually, yes. Although I didn't mention a badged crank, I think one would be appropriate.

George P.

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Re: RESTORATION: reviving a "skeleton" of a skeleton Edison

Post by Andersun »

Is there any evidence that it had a serial number bubble???

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Re: RESTORATION: reviving a "skeleton" of a skeleton Edison

Post by MicaMonster »

Andersun wrote:Is there any evidence that it had a serial number bubble???
Yes. There are milling marks where the serial number bubble used to be. This alone is the most confusing part. I already cut a serial number bubble off of the donor casting, and have ground it back. It just doesn't feel *right* to me to give this a serial number.....
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FloridaClay
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Re: RESTORATION: reviving a "skeleton" of a skeleton Edison

Post by FloridaClay »

MicaMonster wrote:
Andersun wrote:Is there any evidence that it had a serial number bubble???
Yes. There are milling marks where the serial number bubble used to be. This alone is the most confusing part. I already cut a serial number bubble off of the donor casting, and have ground it back. It just doesn't feel *right* to me to give this a serial number.....
It would not feel right to me either. A blank bubble is honest, saying I wish I knew what the # was, but don't. And that degree of honesty seems especially important when recreating an early and rarer machine. Well done.

Clay
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Bruce
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Re: RESTORATION: reviving a "skeleton" of a skeleton Edison

Post by Bruce »

Great project and amazing research to be able to comment on this machine's past.

I look forward to the continuing narrative as you progress.

If to make your "restoration" project as accurate as possible you would like to reconstruct your serial number bubble, I suggest looking into the restoring of the serial numbers by law enforcement forensic authorities. Serial numbers in metal are generally stamped in which affects the metal well down into the main body, leaving the number impression.

I am not sure what resources are available to you and a quick internet search located a variety of news articles and advertisements for private forensic companies in the USA. From what I understand the technique involves striping off any paint, rust, and a thin layer of metal, then treating with an acid to highlight the numbers.

I had one case where the RCMP (Canada) lab was able to restore the numbers from a firearm which had it's numbers filed off and then the whole rifle was thrown in a tidal river for over a year. With the serial numbers restored we were able to link the firearm to a home invasion/homicide.

If you choose this route I suggest contacting your local authorities to see if they can help. One common trait with cops and forensic lab types, they can be insanely curious and willing to do amazing things to solve a mystery, especially a 117 yr old mystery (maybe even for free).

Bruce

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Re: RESTORATION: reviving a "skeleton" of a skeleton Edison

Post by Iva »

any chance you can show where you see the 32? I'm not seeing that...but I see a 4
So I'm wondering if I'm looking in the right place?

This is better then a book :)

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Re: RESTORATION: reviving a "skeleton" of a skeleton Edison

Post by Iva »

here...
Attachments
metal4.jpg

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Re: RESTORATION: reviving a "skeleton" of a skeleton Edison

Post by MicaMonster »

The "3" is to the right of your "4". The "4," interestingly enough is the tail end of a gold "swoop" to the left of the "4".

I understand that the initial stamping of the serial number would leave an imprint in the underlying metal. The forces would have to transmit deformation in the crystalline matrix of the cast iron, and the possibility of a fuzzy number shadow being left is interesting.

A friend of mine suggested that when/if I decide to put anything there, I could acid etch the serial numbers into the iron bubble. Why risk cracking the frame with a high impact stamper.

The donor frame has provided me with a serial number bubble, which I am still grinding back carefully. I want to preserve the "meniscus" around the edge, so careful sanding is important.

There is a brass shim installed under the "new" center stanchion, to get the angle right. And here it is........

Image

Additional filing and filling needed, but it is nice to have the frame back together again.

I must thank a good friend in the phono world for selling this part to me. It is entirely original........having nicks in the paint, and general wear. I figure.....its a special machine. And, worth the additional expense.

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The weighted half nut bar pivots on a shaft, as shown. Terribly unreliable, as the slightest resistance makes the half nut jump the feedscrew. Thus, making this a listening-tube phonograph. As I might have said earlier on, I do not have a Standard Speaker, or an Automatic to install in this machine. The majority of my records are 2-minute black waxes, and I would want to listen to them. So, I put on a Model B. And although not as early as the machine, the reproducer body does not have an alignment notch in it. It does have the side-arm, and a serial number that accents the project: 1545.

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I have decided to leave the original "wedding cake" mica diaphragm in the reproducer, and not "update" it to a copper alloy one. Some years back an acquaintance of mine was able to stamp out paper reproducer gaskets, out of office paper just like the original Edison parts. I used those in this reproducer, limiting the clamping pressure on the diaphragm to "just enough." Has a nice full sound. Maybe too loud for earpieces! :P

The donor casting also had an excellent patent plate on it, which I have removed and set aside.

The threading in the side-arm adjustment thumb screw boss mounted on the carriage is NOT the same as the later Home carriages. None of my spare thumb screws fit...at all. I thought "Tom" just took parts off the shelf, right? HAH! :lol:

Good news, more parts on my INCOMING PARTS LIST:

-Badged crank
-early "cast" mandrel pulley

I found this great material made by the Bondo company called, literally, "PLASTIC METAL." It is a resin paste which bonds to metal, and is good for filling in pores and small scratches. I used to use automotive glazing compound, but had mixed results because the glaze would always shrink or dimple. So, this will be a first use a new material. It might not be re-entering Earth's atmosphere, but if it does it will most likely survive the trip.

More later!
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Re: RESTORATION: reviving a "skeleton" of a skeleton Edison

Post by ChuckA »

MicaMonster wrote: The threading in the side-arm adjustment thumb screw boss mounted on the carriage is NOT the same as the later Home carriages. None of my spare thumb screws fit...at all. I thought "Tom" just took parts off the shelf, right? HAH! :lol:
More later!
Wyatt,

I checked the adjusting screw on my Home #1311 against Standard #102 and Concert #641 and a Spring Motor and none matched up with the threads, it's a very fine thread pitch. Maybe they had issues with cross threading early on and changed to the coarser thread.

Chuck

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Re: RESTORATION: reviving a "skeleton" of a skeleton Edison

Post by MicaMonster »

Chuck,

The threads ARE DIFFERENT for the earlier castings. On the LEFT is an early adjustment screw which happens to fit the skeletal (and is now in a new home in its carriage). On the RIGHT is an adjustment screw from a later Home in the 12,xxx range.

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